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The history of diamond cuts is a truly fascinating subject. From its early origins to the modern brilliance of contemporary cuts, the art of shaping diamonds has undergone significant transformation over the centuries.
The early methods of cutting diamonds were rudimentary due to the limited tools available. For example, the table cut was developed in the thirteenth century AD and is known to be the first true diamond cut. The process was simple, removing the top and bottom points of the octahedron, emphasising the natural form of a diamond rather than enhancing its optical properties.
The Renaissance period marked a significant turning point in diamond cutting. By the 15th century, the diamond trade expanded significantly, particularly in Europe. This period also saw the rise of the rose cut, characterised by many large triangular facets. This design maximised the visual appeal of the diamond, creating a more diverse scintillation. The rose cut was extremely popular in the Georgian period, often set in remarkable silver cut-down settings. The way this cut reflects light is described as more of a ‘lustre’ than a sparkle, catering to the romantic sensibilities of the time.
The old mine cut was also popular during the Georgian era and into the Victorian period. Typically cushion-shaped with wonderfully deep proportions, this mesmerising diamond cut has a remarkable scintillation. Before today's advanced technologies, diamonds were cut by hand using gas light or candlelight—a remarkable skill that has been lost to time. The characteristics of hand-faceted diamonds, such as the old mine cut, boast a warm, romantic scintillation.
The old European cut is similar to the old mine cut; however, it is known for its smaller crown facets and shallower proportions.Although still cut by hand, this diamond was developed in the late 1800s and was created using the newly invented bruting machine. This machine allowed the girdle of a diamond to be shaped by grinding the diamond's girdle against another diamond on a specially designed lathe. Before this invention, it was too arduous a task to make a diamond girdle perfectly round by hand. This was an extremely significant development in diamond cutting, paving the way for the modern brilliant cut diamond.
While both old European cuts and brilliant cuts have 58 facets, the hand-faceted nature of old cuts emphasises craftsmanship and possesses much charm and character. They were thought to be Queen Victoria's favourite diamond cut, believing women should only wear them to evening soirées by candlelight, as that is where they looked their most beautiful! In contrast, the modern brilliant cut is produced with a high degree of symmetry, prioritising light performance. This advancement was made possible by technology that introduced lasers. Cutting diamonds with a laser allowed for scientific precision, and in turn, the facet structure maximised the diamond’s ability to reflect and refract light, resulting in superior scintillation!
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